Restaurant Review: Jack Binion’s Steakhouse: Horseshoe Casino Hotel Southern Indiana
Elizabeth, IN
1-877-367-3767www.HARRAHS.com
Written by G. Douglas Dreisbach
Published November 2008
It’s legendary. That’s the overall message at the new and improved Horseshoe Casino Hotel in Southern Indiana. Horseshoe, a brand started by Benny Binion in 1951 in Las Vegas, came to Southern Indiana in July. On the heels of a $53 million casino renovation and rebranding, guests are raving about the new look and design of the largest riverboat casino on the Ohio River. From the carpet and décor to the casino and poker room, all have been refurbished and no expense spared.
The fine-dining restaurant, Portico, has been upgraded and renamed Jack Binion’s Steakhouse, a brand famous for its huge, mouth-watering steaks, Maine lobster just hours out of the ocean and truly decadent desserts. Located in the pavilion, between the hotel and the casino, this restaurant offers diners a chance to relax and enjoy a superb dining experience. Everything you would expect from a high-end steakhouse can be found at Binion’s — and much more. Many items on the new menu can be prepared table side, adding a special touch to an already indulgent selection. Executive Chef and Manager Joshua Miragliotta says, “We want to offer our guests the best selection of food, and we want to treat them like they are guests in our home.â€
On a recent visit to Jack Binion’s, the service was extraordinary and the food was prepared to perfection. Our server, Michael, has been with the restaurant for seven years and was not only knowledgeable about the menu and selections but was also prompt and courteous throughout the evening.
To begin, we decided to enjoy a moderately priced Kendall Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon ($56) that had light hints of fruit and mint leading to a full-bodied yet smooth finish. Jack Binion’s Steakhouse offers an outstanding wine list with moderately priced bottles to “Captain’s List†selections such as Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon ($275), Dominus Cabernet Sauvignon ($230) and Cakebread Chardonnay ($150).
Shortly after our wine arrived, we were surprised by Chef Miragliotta’s version of Steak and Eggs ($18), a light appetizer of a Kobe Beef Medallion on a slice of French bread topped with quail eggs and cherry glaze. “This is my idea of what steak and eggs should be — buttery slices of Kobe beef with delicate quail eggs,†says Miragliotta. “The remainder of the dish is light and sweet with some crunch. Your mouth will be doing jumping jacks after tasting all of these flavors.†This mini masterpiece is one of the “Amuse Bouche†(appetizer) selections that is served as a chef’s selection and changes nightly. The Steak and Eggs served as a preview of what we could expect for the rest of the evening.
The appetizer menu ranges from seafood selections of Shrimp and Crab Cocktail ($12), Blue Point Oysters ($12) and Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($14) to the likes of Tomato & Mozzarella Bruschetta ($9) and Kobe Beef Wellington ($18). We settled on the Lobster Ravioli ($12) that offered lump chunks of lobster-filled, homemade ravioli topped with a gorgonzola cream and an eclectic mixture of peppers. The rich flavor of the lobster combined with the cream sauce was a rich blend that complemented each other well. The plate came with three individual raviolis but was perfect for two. After enjoying homemade raspberry sorbet to clear the palate, it was time to decide on our entrees.
The options of entrees included several fresh seafood options flown in daily such as Whole Maine Lobster (Market Price), Chilean Sea Bass ($33), Atlantic Salmon ($31) and Sea Scallops ($30). In addition, a combination of both traditional and uniquely created culinary masterpieces adorned the menu including Colorado Rack of Lamb ($42), Beef Wellington ($42), Twin Filets Au Poivre ($44) and a 24-ounce Porterhouse Steak ($50). “We take a lot of pride knowing that we are providing the right food options to our guests,†Miragliotta says. “The menu was designed to target the steakhouse lover in everyone, offering only the best cuts and freshest seafood available.â€
Soon after seeing a neighboring table’s extravagant display of table side food preparation, we chose the Steak Diane Prepared Table side ($44) and the 7-ounce Filet & Lobster Tail (or 1-pound King Crab) ($55), the most popular dish on the menu. Shortly after ordering, Michael appeared table side with a portable stove for the Steak Diane and began the show combining mushrooms and an array of sauces while cooking the two filets. After about three minutes, and cooking the steak to a perfect medium rare, each medallion was placed atop mashed potatoes and crisp asparagus (both ordered al a carte at $6 each) and topped with the remaining mushrooms and sauce and two Beer Battered Onion Rings. The food was bursting with flavor and the presentation was second to none. The 7-ounce Filet & Lobster Tail arrived just as the Steak Diane was ready and was equally as impressive and cooked to a perfect medium rare. Portobello Mushroom and Caramelized Onions (ordered a la carte at $4 each) topped the filet and a shot glass of drawn butter was served with the Lobster Tail. In addition, the entrée was complemented with a bulb of roasted garlic and a side of Creamed Spinach ($6). Both entrées were cooked to perfection and tender enough to cut with a fork.
A perfect meal wouldn’t be complete without the finale of a palate-pleasing dessert. After perusing the Chocolate Soufflé ($12), Peach Cobbler a La Mode ($10), White Chocolate Cheese Cake ($8) and Crème Brulee ($8), we were once again drawn to the extravagant table side display of the Bananas Foster ($12) after a well-informed recommendation. Again, Michael brought out the table side stove and began the process of melding the butter, brown sugar and bananas and igniting the flame with rum and Crème de Banana Schnapps. The combination of the warm medley of sweetness served over cold vanilla ice cream in a martini glass was the ideal ending to a perfect meal.
Jack Binion’s Steakhouse upheld the superior qualities and expectations the rest of the property portrays. The legend lives at Horseshoe Casino and Hotel in Southern Indiana.
Restaurant hours are: Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Reservations are strongly suggested and may be made by calling (877) 367-3767.