Engaging the culture by challenging the status quo
I was so inspired by the online documentary on the Black hair care industry that I decided to do a little investigation on my own. This particular topic caught my attention for two reasons: #1, I have close ties with people who are in the industry, and #2, I believe that this particular topic in many ways is pretty close to a “Custar’s last stand” for a true example of black dominance in a field where we could own both the manufacturing end and retail.
“Are they taking over or did we give them the keys?” refers to the influx of Koreans who have taken over the many of the businesses including much of the black hair care industry. For now, here are excerpts from a couple of articles that explore this whole issue. Hopefully within the next few days (I’m pulling for Monday) I will have much more to present on this topic from my perspective.
Korean-American Small Business
According to the U.S. National Bureau of Economic Research, Korean-Americans, as an ethnic group, have the highest rate of entrepreneurship in the country, with 28 percent of men and 20 percent of women owning their own businesses (“Korea Playing for Big Stakes,” 2001). One reason for these high numbers may be due to the fact that these businesses are often passed between friends and family. For example, in 1975, Doug Choi and his family went from owning and operating a produce store in Brooklyn to acquiring a stationery store in Manhattan through a friend, and finally to a deli on Third Avenue in September of 1994 (MacDonald, 1995). The dynamic nature of these small businesses allows owners such as the Choi family to take a loss at one location and try again in another. Their experience with several business enterprises over a relatively short period is not uncommon for the Korean-American entrepreneur.
Most Korean businesses are small and operated by a husband and wife tandem. The owners usually work more than twelve hours and day, and six or seven days a week. Typical Korean operations include green grocers, dry cleaners, fish markets, restaurants, delicatessens and nail salons. In New York City, Korean green grocers number about 1,400 (Park, 1997). Because these businesses rely on both Koreans and non-Koreans for wholesale suppliers, workers, and clientele, owners must be able to develop different strategies to attract customers in their respective neighborhoods. For example, a store in Manhattan will cater to their customers by including a self-service salad bar with hot dishes to satisfy their need for a quick meal. Another popular business that Korean entrepreneurs take on is that of dry cleaning. Although it requires more capital than a green grocer or fish market, there are about 2,000 dry cleaners run by Koreans in New York City (Park, 1997).
Numerous Korean-American entrepreneurs have successfully developed businesses in inner-city neighborhoods, areas that most retailers have ignored and abandoned in the past. In doing so, Korean-Americans have helped transform some inner-city areas from economic ghost towns into places of commerce. And during this process, these individuals may have outlined a partial blueprint on how to repair the recently ravaged economy (MacDonald, 1995). For example, twenty years ago the long block between Broadway and Fifth Avenue in New York was crumbling fast. Customers slowly stopped patronizing the stores in the area because they were afraid of crime. Opportunistic Korean entrepreneurs spotted this potential and wholesalers began lining up to serve the import-export companies in the area. Today the area is safe as businesses run around the clock (MacDonald, 1995).
Another major obstacle Korean-American entrepreneurs face is raising venture capital. (more…)
The Economics of Hair How did African Americans
lose control of the billion-dollar black hair-care industry? (Sherri Day)
By 1954, George E. Johnson had become the father of the modern ethnic hair-care industry. By
adding emulsifiers to the existing crude formula for conkolene, Johnson made the chemical
straightening process much less painful. In 1971, his Johnson Products Company became the first
black-owned firm to be listed on a major stock exchange. Twenty-two years later, the company
was sold to the white-owned Ivax Corporation. Presently only four of the country’s top ten
hair-care-product manufacturers are black- owned.
The full-color glossy magazine Beauty Times is packed with news about the latest black hair-care
trends. All of its articles are written entirely in Korean. So are its advertisements, depicting black
models with braided hair or freshly conked tresses. The magazine’s existence indicates that, from the
laboratory where products are made to the outlets in which they are sold, it’s a new day in
black hair care. (more…)

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4 Responses to Currently in the works: “Are they taking over or did we give them the keys?”
Saudia
September 15th, 2006 at 1:19 pm
How funny I just left the nail shop. A freind of mine just went online to find a black owned salon and found many. The problem is the price of service. A pedicure at the Koren owned shop is $20 and hte one at the black owned shop was $45- $55. I do believe that we have given them the keys. They have come in and made the prices so low that many blacks can not compete on the same level.
Tiffany Giles
September 16th, 2006 at 7:03 pm
Asian owned businesses have thrived because they work together. Meaning you can have 15-20 shops or more, ordering collectively. This means they get a better price (a lower more competitive price, this Wal-mart) for the same goods that other minority owned businesses who provide the same services can not. They have not taken over and we truly never had the “key”. We as a people seem to have difficulty uniting in anything positive way and by not working together to help each other achieve our goals we literally have cut off our noses to spite our faces. Locally, I would frequent to Black owned Beauty Supply stores, they began as one and because of arguments and jealousy they went their seperate ways. One retained ownership of the original business (though the second partner had done most of the work) and the second partner eventually opened up her own competing Beauty Supply Store within about a 5 mile radius of the original store. Now it was obvious from the beginning that neither would work because 1) Their goods were not appropriate for the community they were targeting (basically they did not know their customers) and instead of having a wide variety of goods they each had a limited amount of items that well…not to be unkind but the community (the one in which they were operating) consists of mainly corporate/suburban type women. You can’t attend or put it this way you shouldn’t attend a business meeting in flourescent red hair unless you’re in the entertainment business. You will not be taken seriously, so basically you will become ineffectual. 2) What basic goods they sold that anyone could use such as shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, etc. (you know the beauty staples) were so outrageously priced that it made them non-competitive, especially when there are about 3 Asian-American owned Beauty Supply Businesses within the same 5-10 mile radius. And 3)You could not just “shop” in their stores, you had to be asked a thousand questions regarding the “other” person’s store and if you purchased items from them as well. And within 3-4 months both businesses were out of business. They had obtained their dreams and through their own selfishness, pride, jealousy and lack of business savvy they each shot themselves in the foot. If we want to have more control over where we spend our money and how it directly benefits our community we first need to work together in a positive and fruitful way, the way Asian-Americans have, they don’t need banks to fund their business ventures. You can have a business idea and attend a meeting and they will not only vote on if they should lend you the money but how much as well. They will be a helpful partner to the business owner instead of shutting the door in their face.
DMG
September 16th, 2006 at 11:00 pm
From the article, it seems like we gave it away. You can’t hate the Koreans for exploiting an opportunity.
anita
September 19th, 2006 at 2:48 pm
Oh yeah, I was a serious perm/weave wearer during the 90’s I’ve since come to my senses and have been “naptural” for the last 8 years. No more fried scalp and yak hair for me (and yes, that 10-30 dollar a bag “Yaki” is actually YAK HAIR which is how they keep the cost low to retain profit.) I’ve recently started to loc my hair, I love it and I ain’t lookin’ back. I have better things to do with my money than to make Koreans and Yaks wealthier.